Anubias plants are among the most beloved and widely used plants in the aquarium hobby, prized for their hardiness, slow growth, and beautiful, thick green leaves. When I first started adding live plants to my aquariums, Anubias quickly became one of my favorites because they’re so forgiving and easy to care for, even for beginners. Whether you’re looking to create a lush aquascape or simply add some greenery to your tank, Anubias plants are an excellent choice.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about growing and caring for Anubias plants, from selecting the right species to maintaining them in your aquarium.
What Are Anubias Plants?
Anubias are a genus of aquatic and semi-aquatic plants native to Africa. They are often used in freshwater aquariums because they are very adaptable to a wide range of water conditions. Unlike many other aquarium plants, Anubias are slow-growing and can thrive in low-light environments, making them perfect for tanks without high-tech setups. Their thick, dark green leaves are hardy and resistant to damage, which is especially useful in tanks with fish that tend to nibble on plants.
Step 1: Choosing the Right Anubias Species
There are several species and varieties of Anubias plants, each with slightly different sizes and leaf shapes. Here are some popular options:
1.1 Common Anubias Varieties
- Anubias barteri: The most popular variety, featuring large, broad leaves that can grow up to 16 inches tall.
- Anubias nana: A smaller, more compact version of Anubias barteri, great for smaller tanks or foreground planting.
- Anubias coffeefolia: Known for its wrinkled leaves and reddish stems, adding unique texture to the tank.
- Anubias nana ‘Petite’: A very small variety perfect for nano tanks or detailed aquascaping.
- Anubias afzelii: Features longer, narrower leaves and grows taller, making it a good mid-ground or background plant.
For beginners or anyone working with smaller tanks, Anubias nana or Anubias nana ‘Petite’ are ideal options, while larger tanks can accommodate Anubias barteri or Anubias afzelii.
Step 2: Setting Up Your Aquarium for Anubias
One of the best things about Anubias plants is that they are not too demanding in terms of tank setup. However, giving them the right conditions will help them grow healthier and look their best.
2.1 Ideal Tank Size
Anubias can grow in tanks of almost any size. Because they grow slowly and don’t need a lot of space, even nano tanks as small as 5 gallons can support smaller species like Anubias nana ‘Petite’. In larger tanks, species like Anubias barteri can become a centerpiece plant.
2.2 Lighting Requirements
Anubias plants are low-light plants, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in aquariums. They do well with about 1-2 watts per gallon of light or in setups with LED lighting designed for low-light plants. If you have a low-tech setup without a CO2 system, Anubias will still thrive. Too much light can actually lead to algae growth on their leaves, so avoid very bright lighting. In my low-light tanks, I’ve found that Anubias plants grow beautifully without any special adjustments.
2.3 Water Parameters
Anubias are very forgiving when it comes to water conditions. They can tolerate a wide range of parameters, making them suitable for many different types of aquariums.
- Temperature: 72°F to 82°F (22°C to 28°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 7.5
- Water hardness: Soft to moderately hard water (3 to 8 dKH)
As long as your water stays within these ranges, your Anubias plants should do well. They are also very tolerant of different substrates and can be grown in tanks with gravel, sand, or specialized planted tank substrates.
Step 3: Planting Anubias in Your Aquarium
One unique thing about Anubias is that it should not be buried in the substrate like most other plants. Instead, it’s best to attach them to hard surfaces.
3.1 Attaching to Rocks or Driftwood
Anubias are epiphytes, which means they naturally grow on rocks, driftwood, or other hard surfaces. This is how they thrive in nature and in your tank, too. I usually attach my Anubias plants to driftwood or rocks, which gives them a natural look and allows them to anchor securely.
You can attach Anubias using cotton thread, fishing line, or super glue (make sure it’s aquarium-safe). Over time, the plant will send out roots and naturally cling to the surface, and you can remove the thread or line if you used it. In my experience, cotton thread works well because it eventually dissolves as the plant roots anchor themselves.
3.2 Avoid Burying the Rhizome
The rhizome is the thick horizontal stem from which the leaves grow, and it should never be buried in the substrate. If buried, the rhizome can rot, and the plant will die. Instead, make sure the rhizome is above the substrate and only the roots are in the substrate or attached to the rock or wood.
Step 4: Caring for Anubias
Once planted, Anubias is incredibly easy to care for. It’s a slow-growing plant, but as long as its basic needs are met, it can thrive for years with minimal maintenance.
4.1 Fertilization
Although Anubias are low-maintenance plants, they still benefit from some nutrients, especially in low-tech tanks without a lot of fish waste or nutrients. In my tanks, I use a liquid fertilizer once a week, which provides essential nutrients like potassium and iron. Anubias primarily absorb nutrients through their leaves, so liquid fertilizers are particularly effective. You can also use root tabs near the roots if they are attached to the substrate, though this is less necessary than with other rooted plants.
4.2 Pruning
Anubias plants grow slowly, but their older leaves will eventually yellow and die off. It’s a good idea to prune these leaves to keep the plant healthy. You can simply cut off any yellow or damaged leaves at the base using clean, sharp scissors. I usually check my plants during regular water changes and prune as needed, which helps encourage new growth.
4.3 Managing Algae
One common issue with Anubias plants is algae growth on the leaves, especially if the plant is exposed to too much light. To prevent this, I recommend keeping the lighting moderate to low and limiting the amount of time the lights are on to about 8 hours per day. Additionally, adding algae eaters like Amano shrimp or Otocinclus can help control algae in the tank. In my tanks, I’ve found that occasional algae buildup on Anubias is easily wiped off with my fingers or a soft sponge during water changes.
Step 5: Propagating Anubias
One of the best things about Anubias is how easy they are to propagate. Over time, the rhizome will grow horizontally and produce new shoots.
5.1 Dividing the Rhizome
To propagate Anubias, simply cut the rhizome into sections using a sharp, clean knife or scissors. Each section should have at least a few leaves and roots. You can then attach the new section to a new piece of driftwood, rock, or leave it in its current position to continue growing.
5.2 Growing New Plants
Once divided, the new plants will continue to grow and eventually produce more rhizomes and leaves. This is a slow process, but with patience, you’ll have multiple Anubias plants growing in your aquarium. I’ve propagated several Anubias plants over the years this way, and it’s a great way to expand your aquascape without buying more plants.
Step 6: Common Problems and How to Solve Them
Though Anubias are hardy and resilient, you might occasionally run into problems. Here are a few common issues and how to address them.
6.1 Yellowing Leaves
If your Anubias leaves are turning yellow, it could be due to a nutrient deficiency, particularly a lack of iron. Adding a liquid fertilizer that contains iron can usually solve this problem. I’ve noticed that yellowing tends to happen in low-tech setups that don’t have enough nutrients, so regular fertilization is key.
6.2 Algae Overgrowth
As mentioned earlier, Anubias are prone to algae buildup on their slow-growing leaves, especially in high-light setups. Reducing light intensity and duration can help, along with regular cleaning of the leaves. In my tanks, I find that a simple wipe-down during water changes keeps algae in check.
6.3 Rhizome Rot
If the rhizome is buried in the substrate or planted incorrectly, it can start to rot. Always ensure that the rhizome is exposed and not covered by the substrate. If you notice the rhizome starting to turn mushy or black, gently remove the plant and replant it properly, or cut away the damaged sections.
Anubias plants are one of the easiest and most attractive plants to grow in a freshwater aquarium. Their hardiness, adaptability, and stunning
green leaves make them a favorite among both beginners and experienced aquarists. Whether you’re adding them to driftwood in a low-tech tank or using them in a high-tech aquascape, Anubias plants will bring life and beauty to your aquarium with minimal maintenance. Just remember to provide them with the right environment, avoid burying the rhizome, and give them the occasional fertilizer boost, and you’ll have a thriving Anubias for years to come.
FAQs
1. Can Anubias grow fully submerged?
Yes, Anubias can grow fully submerged, and they are commonly used in aquariums. They can also grow in semi-aquatic environments, where their leaves are above water while their roots are submerged.
2. Do Anubias plants need CO2?
Anubias plants do not require CO2 to grow, but CO2 supplementation can improve their growth rate and health. In low-tech tanks, they do just fine without it.
3. How long does it take for Anubias to grow?
Anubias are slow-growing plants, so you may not see significant growth for several weeks or months. However, once established, they can live for many years with proper care.
4. Can I bury the roots of Anubias in the substrate?
You can bury the roots, but never bury the rhizome. The rhizome should remain above the substrate, as burying it can cause the plant to rot.
5. What should I do if algae grows on my Anubias?
If algae grows on the leaves, reduce the light intensity or duration, clean the leaves during water changes, and consider adding algae-eating fish or invertebrates to your tank to help manage the algae.
